Mouth-watering kebabs, fragrant biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with locals and travelers equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious roster of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the limelight for what has perennially defined its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Iranian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the mutton galouti was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known delights that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
